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How to use black diamond atc guide Dec 22, 2022 · The Black Diamond ATC Belay Device The Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller, or ATC for short, is Black Diamond’s flagship belay device. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now even lighter due to windows machined by the body. Sucks for rapping, lead belaying. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. Jan 16, 2019 · Black Diamond ATC guide, a “plaquette” style belay device. Black Diamond’s most tried and true belay device was named the ATC to facetiously draw the connection between a falling climber and an aircraft trying to land at the airport. Black Diamond recommends using an HMS carabiner, like the Black Diamond Gridlock, as they are larger and usually have a nice rounded top. The recommended way to use the ATC Guide is to have the brake strand on the high friction side. Conclusion: Black Diamond Atc Guide Vs Petzl Reverso 4 Rappelling and lowering accidents are two of the most common types of accidents and are often easily preventable. Black Diamond ATC Guide ATC Guide is a versatile tool for security and descend single rope and double-rope use. It is 10% lighter and offers improved handling and multiple friction modes. How to use a climbing belay device in guide mode including lowering, Black Diamond ATC / DMM Pivot JB Mountain Skills • 112K views 4 years ago Nov 18, 2025 · Real-World Testing: Putting Black Diamond Atc-Alpine Guide to the Test First Use Experience My first test occurred on a multi-pitch climb in the Bugaboos, British Columbia. comBlack Diamond ATC Guide: A quick instructional video on the proper use. With proper care and maintenance, it should provide years of reliable service. The oval-ized anchor-ho Black Diamond ATC Pilot tilfredsstiller kravene i EN 15151-2, Manuelt bremseutstyr, type 2: utstyr for sikring og nedfiring uten mulighet for å justere friksjon. Experienced climbers felt that using it felt very similar to operating a regular Black Diamond ATC or Petzl Verso. The device is designed to work with a range of rope types and diameters, catering to various climbing styles and preferences. When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. Hot forged and assembled in Wales, UK, the Pivot also features teeth for extra gripping The Black Diamond ATC Guide is an indispensable tool for climbers, offering versatility, safety, and control across various climbing situations. View the Black Diamond ATC-Guide manual for free or ask your question to other Black Diamond ATC-Guide owners. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rap Jun 18, 2024 · Black Diamond ATC-Guide⁚ A Comprehensive Guide This guide explores the Black Diamond ATC-Guide, a versatile belay/rappel device praised for its lightweight design and improved handling. At the end of the day knowing how to rappel with an ATC will lead to grander rappel adventures, descending heights and reaching destinations that previously were inaccessible. Five stars. Engineered with an auto-block release hole that is compatible with small carabiners, this device provides essential functionality for belaying a second climber with minimal effort. It's also enlarged the auto-block release hole to accept Black Diamond manuals. It doesnt have friction grooves, heat dissipaters or any other fancy add-ons it is simple and works great. But how do you rappel with an ATC? How to use a climbing belay device in guide mode including lowering, Black Diamond ATC / DMM Pivot JB Mountain Skills 34. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rappelling, and the device's guide mode lets you belay one or two seconding Nov 15, 2016 · In Use ATC-Pilot Details Every carabiner-rope combination is going to provide a different amount of holding force with the ATC-Pilot. Clear images on the device and a lack of moving parts helped even the newest, and youngest, of our testers properly ATC Guide by American company Black Diamond is practical and very popular belay device. BD's ATC GUIDE lightest incarnation combines auto-blocking capabilities with traditional harness mounted belay function. 7 to 10. Not much has changed since its original design in the 1990s. Nov 18, 2025 · Buy the Black Diamond ATC Guide online or shop all Climb from Backcountry. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rappelling, and the device's guide mode lets you belay one or two seconding climbers off an anchor. May 17, 2025 · Black Diamond ATC Guide: A Comprehensive Overview The Black Diamond ATC-Guide stands as a versatile belay and rappel device, renowned for its utility in various climbing scenarios. It offers basically all the features of the ATC XP, as well auto-locking top-belay for belaying seconds. Seek qualified instruction. At first glance, our testers thought they would prefer the Reverso because it's lighter and the shiny anodized finish looks cooler. 10% lighter than its predecessor with improved feeding and pulling in guide mode, the versatile Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay device offers multiple friction modes for belaying and rappelling. With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. How do they work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rope? Jul 21, 2025 · The Black Diamond Atc-Guide Belay/Rappel Device is built to last, with a durable aluminum construction that can withstand the rigors of frequent use. While Black Diamond created the original ATC, and maintains the ownership of the name, everyone pretty much refers to any tubular belay device as an ATC. La Black Diamond ATC-Guide e la ATC-Alpine Guide sono conformi ai requisiti di sicurezza della norma EN 15151-2, Attrezzatura per alpinismo - Dispositivi di frenatura manuali - Tipo 4: dispositivo per l’assicurazione e la discesa in corda doppia con una funzione per regolare l’attrito. If you’ve learned to belay using an ATC then you can belay using the Guide straight away. Learn about its features, capabilities, and limitations. A more compact, lighter version of our versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC-Alpine Guide is built for smash and grab ascents in the mountains. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. I hope you all find the ATC Guide as useful as I did. With great holding and stopping power and a versatile design that accepts a wide range of ropes, this classic belay device is ready for a variety of missions. Oct 15, 2006 · Black Diamond's instructions on using the auto-block supplied with the device. Black Diamond's most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. This allows one device to be carried and used for multiple purposes: belaying the leader, auto-block belaying of one or two followers, lowering, and high or low friction rappelling. The oval-ized anchor-ho Jul 6, 2011 · If you already have the guide and would like to learn a little more about it and how to use it, Black Diamond has a how to video on their site. Aug 6, 2021 · GriGri vs. Though it’s a very simple device to use, care should be taken when learning how to rappel with an ATC. 5 mm range. com/belay/black-diamond-atc-guide-0ATC Alpine Guide: htt Explore durable climbing belay & rappel devices from Black Diamond to gear up for your next descent. The ATC Guide 2018 is no longer manufactured by Black Diamond. The ATC belay device from Black Diamond is one of the most popular rappel devices in the world. Two friction modes for securing and descend. Do not modify this product in any way. It belongs to a group of belay devices which are in the Czech Republic called the “buckets”. Perfect for single-pitch climbs. You‘ll also find tips on choosing the right Black Diamond equipment as a beginner, plus advice on getting the best deals. ATC: Which Is Best for Multipitch Climbing? The Black Diamond ATC set up on multipitch belay on the Casual Route on Longs Peak Both these devices can be used for multipitch climbing. The Black Diamond Atc-Alpine Guide performed admirably, providing smooth belays and controlled rappels. The conditions were mixed, with periods of sunshine interspersed with light rain. Let’s quickly look at the key specs, variations, and pros and cons of climbing’s most classic tube-style belay device. Shop our ATC Guide, ATC XP & more belaying & rappelling gear. Jan 31, 2016 · Black Diamond also makes our Top Pick for multi-pitch climbing, the ATC Guide. I use an ATC for the gym and most toproping, especially with thick 11mm+ ropes, and a Reverso 4 for all lead belays -from above and below - and anything involving a skinny rope <9. Before using this product, read and understand all instructions and warnings that accompany it and familiarize yourself with its proper use, capabilities and limitations. The Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device (see on Amazon) was made to provide the greatest support in most rappels and help you to maintain significant control. On the high friction side, you will typically see an icon of a hand holding onto a strand of rope. Understanding its features and proper usage can significantly enhance your climbing experience, making it safer and more enjoyable. . With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. 5 millimeters in diameter yet works with ropes from 6. Mar 8, 2013 · The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. 8mm. Nov 20, 2025 · By far, the most popular device for this purpose is an ATC from Black Diamond. Does it get hot during rappels? Yes, so go slower and keep it from flopping around your short shorts after rapping; who wears those at the crag anyway? Apr 13, 2016 · The Black Diamond ATC-Guide has more bite on the rope, and is was easier to lower a climber when belaying off the anchor on a multi-pitch Jan 15, 2018 · The new Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a lightweight assisted braking belay device for single-pitch climbs. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when low The Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay Device is the ultimate tool for seasoned climbers seeking reliable and versatile performance on multi-pitch trad climbs, alpine routes, or when guiding clients. Jul 29, 2019 · Multi-pitch Ice Here I’d go with the standard plaquette device like the Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso 4 and the knowledge of the Munter Hitch mentioned at the beginning to help deal with icy ropes. With assisted braking technology similar to a Grigri, this device ensures smooth and secure control during belaying and rappelling. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. SEE CURRENT BEST PRICES & DETAILS OF THE ATC GUIDE & ATC ALPINE GUIDE:ATC Guide: https://weighmyrack. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger… Manual Black Diamond ATC-Guide. Dec 21, 2023 · Having dropped my original belay device on the Matterhorn, I was after a new one – and the ATC-XP by Black Diamond certainly delivers! Distinguishing itself with high-friction grooves, the ATC-XP offers an impressive grip and stopping power in its friction mode. The ATC Guide works very smoothly in all conditions, because the body is relatively high, the rope runs smoothly Manual Black Diamond ATC-Guide. If you rappel a lot, get something more durable such as the Wild Country VC Pro 2 (it has thicker tube stock and friction La Black Diamond ATC-Guide e la ATC-Alpine Guide sono conformi ai requisiti di sicurezza della norma EN 15151-2, Attrezzatura per alpinismo - Dispositivi di frenatura manuali - Tipo 4: dispositivo per l’assicurazione e la discesa in corda doppia con una funzione per regolare l’attrito. Guide mode on the Black Diamond ATC Guide is designed for belaying from above, offering exceptional control and security. In this respect it is very much like its predecessor, the BD ATC-XP, and innumerable other similar devices. We show it as available on WeighMyRack because you can still find it at reliable online retailers. The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is a versatile belay device designed for Apr 24, 2019 · For years the Petzl Reverso and Black Diamond ATC Guide have been two of the most popular belay devices among American multi-pitch climbers. Oct 11, 2009 · Find out how to use the Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device to belay or lower one or two seconding climbers in guide mode with ease and control. To engage guide mode, attach the device to an anchor point using a locking carabiner and thread the rope through the device. Experience enhanced security with the ATC-Pilot Belay Device. Contact Black Diamond if you are uncertain about how to use this product. The ATC Guide provides similar friction compared to the other tube-style devices. How to Belay Using a ATC | Black Diamond Youth Odyssey 97 subscribers Subscribed Sep 29, 2024 · Understanding the Black Diamond ATC-Guide’s rope compatibility and capacity is crucial for safe and effective use. Dec 18, 2009 · How to use a Black diamond ATC Guide belay plate A more compact, lighter version of our versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC-Alpine Guide is built for smash and grab ascents in the mountains. Here’s a review from an REI expert. Black Diamond ATC Pilot tilfredsstiller kravene i EN 15151-2, Manuelt bremseutstyr, type 2: utstyr for sikring og nedfiring uten mulighet for å justere friksjon. Shop online for this essential climbing gear from Backcountry. Learn about its advantages, disadvantages, maintenance, and where to purchase Aug 26, 2021 · Here, I present a comparison review of Black Diamond’s ATC Belay/Rappel Device (ATC) and ATC-Guide/Rappel Device (Guide)—I believe that ATCs still have an important place in rock climbing. A more compact, lighter version of the versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC-Alpine Guide is built for smash and grab ascents in the mountains. Black Diamond ATC Guide best practices vs. It’s a great choice for climbers who want a device that can be used for top-roping, trad climbing, and even alpine climbing. A single rope geometry assisted belay device with enhanced braking, the ATC Pilot introduces a system that provides an added level of security to your belay, Jan 14, 2019 · Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. Black Diamond ATC Pilot Belay Device - FULL DETAILS WeighMyRack 18K subscribers Subscribe Discover the Black Diamond ATC Guide for climbing enthusiasts. Plaquette style belay devices like the Black Diamond ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso are great, allowing smooth rappels, to be rigged as an ascender, and to autolock when belaying your second. We Mar 2, 2015 · left: normal belaying in guide-mode right: controlled lower of one or two followers At 72 grams, the $29. Don't listen to any of these gumbies talking about how the grigri is better. Aug 21, 2018 · The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a “ geometry assisted ” belay device for ropes in the 8. This article will serve as a guide, as to what an ATC is, and how to use it correctly. The oval-ized anchor-ho Sep 15, 2025 · How to use a climbing belay device in guide mode including lowering, Black Diamond ATC / DMM Pivot Learning to Trad Climb: Part 5 - How to abseil/rappel Jul 13, 2025 · Let’s Talk About Black Diamond Atc-Alpine Guide The Black Diamond Atc-Alpine Guide is not just another belay device; it’s a testament to minimalist design meeting functional necessity in the alpine environment. Nov 26, 2013 · Black Diamond ATC Guide: Beefiest and longest-lasting. Since buying the ATC-XP though the ATC stays on my gear loops until I need to rappel. ly/3SuXqSG Petzl Reverso: https://bit. Dec 24, 2017 · Chris Van Leuven used the Black Diamond ATC Pilot to catch gear-ripping falls and liked its simple design and smooth rope handling so well that it became his go-to belay device for single-pitch cragging. Additionally, a machined window within the device contributes to its lighter weight, resulting in the ATC-XP weighing just 64 grams. At just 73 grams, this featherweight belay/rappel device is optimized for ropes between 8. Manufactured by Black Diamond, this ultralight piece of gear is designed for the climber who counts every gram and demands reliable performance when the stakes are high. Apr 16, 2023 · The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is a versatile belay device that can be used for a variety of climbing styles. This skill can be done with other devices and MUST be practices to This video is on how to use a Black Diamond ATC Guide in Autolocking mode off the anchor. I leave single strand brake-assisting devices home when ice climbing as they tend to not work as well on ice ropes and weight is a premium. The oval-ized anchor-ho Black Diamond's most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now even lighter thanks to windows machined through the body. With both designs, you run the rope through the belay device and secure both the device and the rope through a locking carabiner (see photo). Mar 28, 2019 · The Ergo and the ATC Pilot are assisted braking belay devices. ly/3XykBw8more Designed for the smaller rope diameters of fast-and-light alpine missions, the 73g Black Diamond ATC-Alpine Guide belay device is an ultralight, compact version of the award-winning ATC-Guide. Dec 5, 2024 · Check out the pictorial instructions linked here for proper usage of this device. Here we use the rope looking at Nov 6, 2022 · What Does ATC Stand For? One of the climbing market’s most famous and trusted belay devices is the Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller or ATC. The Black Diamond ATC and ATC-XP are very similar in design and function and are both incredibly easy to use. The ATC-XP is the next evolution of Black Diamond’s ‘Air Traffic Controller’, tubular belay device. Explore durable climbing belay & rappel devices from Black Diamond to gear up for your next descent. It can be used with or without teeth, on multipitch to belay from above or directly from an anchor, it’s very good for rappelling, and it’s very easy to use. The `High friction mode does give 3x more friction. We only use this to bring up followers and we only use it if we are fully capable of defeating it (fully Black diamond atc guide how to use The ATC Guide 2018 is technically retired, but it is still sold online. The Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device is the ultimate tool for seasoned climbers seeking reliability and versatility on multi-pitch rock, ice, or alpine routes. Nov 28, 2018 · The Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay/Rappel Device is now 10% lighter, offering enhanced handling in guide mode. The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a great belay device for multi-pitch routes and descents at a low price. My conclusion is that it is very dependent on the anchor set up, the position of your body, the angle of the device, and the amount of leverage that can be applied to the ATC from the sling. A GriGri can generally handle a top belay just as efficiently as an ATC-Guide, and simul-rapping is an option when necessary. KONG GiGi: Least amount of friction when used with thick ropes, but a bit scary with sub 8mm ropes. Members, use code HOLIDAY2025 to save 20% on this item, thru 11/24. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. I found the device easy to use, with The updated version of one of Black Diamond's most versatile belay/rappel device, the ATC-Guide is lightweight thanks to windows machined through the body. The grigri is over hyped. Add five bucks for the Edelrid Mega Jul (65 g). 1 – Tie a quick overhand or figure 8 on a bight as a backup knot in the brake strand of the rope. In `Guide mode` you as guide two after climbers up secure and lowering. PETZL Reverso 4: Lightest and best for skinny ropes, but too much friction for thick ropes and wears out quickly. The Pilot is simple, light, and perfect for what it does. May 24, 2013 · Besides, grigri is heavy, more complex for kids to master, and costs ten times what an ATC does. Its A more compact, lighter version of our versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC-Alpine Guide is built for smash and grab ascents in the mountains. It boasts multiple friction modes, ensuring optimal stopping power during lowering or rappelling, and its guide mode enables belaying one or two seconding climbers from an anchor. This device is similar to the ATC XP but with the ability to belay a follower from above directly off an anchor. Dec 10, 2024 · In this extensive guide, I share everything you need to know about Black Diamond, from its history and innovations to an in-depth review of its product range. " Black Diamond ATC Pilot tilfredsstiller kravene i EN 15151-2, Manuelt bremseutstyr, type 2: utstyr for sikring og nedfiring uten mulighet for å justere friksjon. It combines a standard tube-style design with the ability to belay directly from an anchor. The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is a versatile belay/rappel device. 9mm to 11mm in diameter. 9K subscribers Subscribe Guide mode is great, but here in the UK especially, we do love to use the rope to build a belay and most instructions for guide mode show sling or cordlette setups. http://rockclimbingequipmentreviews. This user manual provides instructions and warnings for using the Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay device. Jul 13, 2018 · The results We found the Black Diamond ATC Pilot to be incredibly intuitive with a quick learning curve to become proficient in both lead and top-rope belaying. It's easy to understand why: they're both affordable, smooth, and reliable. Oct 2, 2024 · Learn the ins and outs of the Black Diamond ATC guide with our comprehensive guide, covering benefits, usage, types, and safety precautions. I’m sure with practice you could get pretty proficient with it and know the ins and outs. seminar where the main instructor indicated that he is comfortable using the ATC in guide-mode without always having a hand on the brake-side of the rope because when used that way, it is an "auto-locking device. ly/40YplOJ Black Diamond Guide: https://bit. We’ll delve into its features, rope compatibility, various friction modes, and comparison to other Black Diamond belay devices. Find your Black Diamond product for free and view the manual or ask other product owners your question. GriGri, specifically for top-belay I recently attended a two day trad. It is especially valuable for multi-pitch climbs. The ATC design hasnt changed in 20 years and is competitively priced. Check out a useful skill to switch for rappel to ascend with the Black Diamond Guide ATC. Nov 13, 2007 · The BD ATC-Guide is a tube-style belay/rappel device with friction ridges. 95 Pivot sits squarely between the same-priced Black Diamond ATC Guide (88 g) and Petzl Reverso 4 (59 g). 9 to 9mm. Jul 4, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is a versatile belay device used for climbing and rappelling with double ropes, featuring an auto-locking guide mode function for added safety and control always. Learn how here. Oct 1, 2021 · We recommend the Black Diamond ATC Guide as the best manual belay device. Subscribed 379 32K views 2 years ago Black Diamond Alpine Guide: https://bit. Specifically, it accommodates single ropes ranging from 8. 1 and 8. Black Diamond named it the “Air Traffic Controller” as a tongue-in-cheek reference to falling climbers. These are my opinions after quite a bit of use - and I still continue to use all three Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. Feb 13, 2010 · The Black Diamond ATC is simple, light, affordable, provides smooth rope handling and is compact. ATC The ATC is virtually the most basic belay device you can find these days, if not the cheapest as well. The ATC Guide is, in my opinion, the finest belay device ever made. com. oizck abjefc awgp ndpec qmbktc ceqjn whbd uyhsvc mdwi qzgqbk thqsj wkpxj jmcf bfruk qnxbwr